Rise Above

How do you define Henry Rollins? Hardcore legend? Actor? Poet? Activist? Ventriloquist? Well apart from the latter all are applicable. The man has constantly been in the public eye since the early 1980s, although just out of sight, quietly hating the world around him. Yet it seems age has mellowed Rollins, no longer as averse to fighting his fans on stage but rather relying on his dry wit to throw shit at the events that shape his everyday life.

BLHB caught up with Rollins just before the start of his latest spoken word tour, but with that going from strength-to-strength, have we seen the last of Henry Rollins, the musician? Rollins was abjectly blunt on the matter “Well I am not feeling any music at this time. I can only do what is really compelling me to do so. I wouldn’t want to go out and do music if I wasn’t 110% into it. I am just not interested in going out and doing the same old thing again. Life is too short for that. Too many people in music stick around too long.”

With several influential bands under his belt and a ‘re-emergence’ as a spoken word artist, Henry Rollins has been commenting on the shape and decay of America and the World as a whole for close to 30 years now, and it seems that a busy schedule and a tendency to push himself to the edge won’t stop him now. “Lets see, I put out two books last year, wrapped out of ‘The Sons of Anarchy’ show a couple of weeks ago and now I am leaving to travel all over until about the first show of next year. It will be a real test.” Rollins spoken word tours have now became the main focus of a career which also includes stints of acting and even chat show hosting “It’s just work I take between tours. I did television all last year, it was great but it was a job I took because I still work for a living. I had a good time but I am not really an actor. I thought I hung in there pretty well, though.”

So what’s the agenda for Rollins’ latest tour, the aptly titled ‘Frequent Flyer tour’? “I will just be talking about all the places I have been and the things I have done since I was last here, that will keep me busy onstage for quite some time.” The latest tour also brings Rollins a change of focus in the form of one Barack Obama and, more importantly, whether white America has woken up “There are some people in America who are acting very stupidly since they found out they have a black president. It’s been a very ugly and frustrating time for me in America for the last several months.” During his last shows in Britain Rollins stated he couldn’t fathom the general American public anymore, before Obama’s inauguration there was an air of hope and change, now this has been replaced with impatientness and old skool fear-mongering. Musicians world-wide have been seemingly eager to praise their new president through song, but is it falling on deaf ears? “Hard to say. I don’t really think what happens in the music world affects politics in any meaningful way. If it did, Marley and Dylan’s music would have stopped all wars. The President doesn’t always do things that I agree with. Afghanistan for instance, what a nightmare and we keep walking deeper into it.”

With his spoken word commitments taking over his life Rollins rectifies his dislike for reunions and, it seems, the music distribution model as a whole. “I would never do music for the money. Black Flag is not mine to re-form anyway and again, doing old stuff, I don’t want to at this point. It’s not all that brave in my opinion. I would rather fail elsewhere.” A Black Flag reunion would indeed be very welcome, despite his protests as hardcore punk as such has seen a revival in the past few years. It would be forgivable in marketing Black Flag like a consumerist powerhouse, similar to Glen Danzig’s Misfits business-model (Misfits wall clock anyone?) “That’s the way of all things that stick around for awhile, they become marketable as society makes room and then the thing that had teeth and terrified the Middle-West now purrs on the couch. It’s what happens to almost anything in a consumer culture.”

You can’t deny it though, even if music is behind him, Henry Rollins continues to provoke reactions, and it couldn’t suit him more, even if his work-load is somewhat heavy even for him. “My workload? Its eating. Me. Alive.”      

Odds, Sods, Inanimate Carbon Rods

Continuing with the current autumn/winter releases, we look at the best of the rest (mainly because I don't want to sound like a broken record and I'd hate to be as derivative as Trivium).

BAPE

BAPE have decided they're all about camouflage this season, with tees, hoods, shoes, caps and even long johns being released in the style. The long johns in particular are amazing, and very reminiscent of Snake Plissken and hey, if you can wear something that makes you feel like Kurt Russell, then by God you must wear it.. As expected, the items aren't cheap, with the Plissken-pants retailing for £110.

As well as the camo items, the BAPE Native styles are back in play. Personally not a fan, but needless to say they're still going to be swallowed up. Native is affecting hoods and gilets.

Shoe wise there are no outlandish BAPESta or Roadsta releases this season, with the company opting for more understated releases. The pick of the bunch is the Crapes, released in black, sax, grey and green suede colourways. They can be yours for £160.


Available now at BAPE London or from the European website.

OBEY

OBEY have had a belter of a year what with revamping their website, Shepard Fairey slowly becoming a household name and Andre the Giant still being dead... ok so maybe the latter is no cause for celebration, but you see what I mean.

OBEY are sticking with their tried and true products - visually absorbing tees. OBEY don't disappoint here, releasing familiar prints in the form of Andre and the OBEY logo in the KISS style. The pick of the bunch however come in the form of the 'Fight For Earth' organic tee (left) and the 'Power' 10th anniversary tee.

Away from tees, OBEY have gone for a more understated, almost industrial look for their accessories this season. The caps are slightly disappointing - Supreme-esque rehashes and bland trucker caps, but the Fedoras and such are strong as usual. The full-on wintery items (gloves, scarves) are also stripped back, but look sturdy and well crafted.

Available now from OBEY clothing and your nearest stockist.

  

Manwich

Yeah that's right, Man Tips, because the fact that you have a penis, doesn't make you a man. But guess what, I do have a penis (allegedly) and I AM a man (allegedly) and I am taking it as my duty to teach YOU how to stride through life like the courageous battle hero that you are.

TIP #1 - MAN FOOD

Real men eat real food. Do you think that Patrick Swayze became 'Roadhouse' because he spent his days eating tofu? Of course he didn't. He got it, because of the sandwich Manwich, the fifth element and the purest form of artistic expression known in the universe.

So now you're sitting there thinking "God-damn I'm hungry, fucking beautiful women and watching kung-fu all day has given me an insatiable yearn for foodstuffs", I know this because I can see you, sitting in your chair like it was an exuberant throne of excellence. Stand up son, its time to make you a man.

Before you can even attempt to think about making your manwich, you need to dress the part. Everyone knows that there are two constants in life; crime and power, and nothing sums up these themes better than pimps and gangsters. Lets combine the two and prepare for war.

Feels good doesn't it. The fedora makes you look like James Caan, the coat makes you feel like Rick James. On the inside you are merely organs, but on the outside you are Rick Caan, or James James. Studly.

Now that you are dressed to impress, get your perfectly formed glutes down to your kitchen and get your ingredients soldier.

And there they are - white bread, fresh chicken, butter, barbecue sauce and crisps. No salad though, Bugs Bunny ate salad and you know what happened to him? That's right, Elmur Fudd shot him in the neck, dressed him up as Girl Bunny and skullfucked him.

So now you've hunted and gathered your ingredients, you need something to cook that fowl carcass on...

You don't want to be fannying around with ovens and hobs, you want to cook on something developed by an expert in punching people square in the face. Step-up George Foreman grill, its time for action.

You open him up and you're met with this, what do you do? The answer - nothing. Some may call this grease, some may call it disgusting, but it is merely nothing more than the victorious juice of your last culinary conquest. This is your grill's badge of honour, and he is going to wear it with pride.

While you're waiting for George to warm-up you should apply a vigorous amount of butter to your bread, because real men, like the boy scouts they grew from, are always prepared. Now butter the bread as if you were caressing a lady, or carefully whittling a piece of fine oak, after all, this bread is the armour to your manwich's chickeny core.

The grill is heated up nice like a recently used flamethrower, time to lay your poultry companion upon the strips of heated glory, for about 15 minutes at least.

While you are waiting for him to be cooked until perfect, you may wish to engage in other manly activities;

Activities such as writing swear words on the fridge...

Watching internet videos of bears fighting with certified heroes...

Flicking coins across your knuckles like a riverboat gambler...

Or drawing pictures of Batman, all are worthwhile pursuits for any budding man.

After fifteen minutes he's ready. Look at him, all crispy, golden and noble, like George Hamilton. Before you go eating this fine product of evolution, you need to check if he is pink in the middle because if he is, you want to burn his bitch-ass a little longer.

Is he pink? Is he fuck. He's raring to go, begging you to tuck into his delicious flesh like your fore-fathers and wolves have done for the last 48 million years.

Its time, time to carve that sucker and introduce him to his new best buddy in the entire world - Captain bread.

I know what you're thinking, you're thinking "Damn, I could just stick my dick into the middle of this and be gone for the night", but don't as this would not only burn your best friend, but would also render the manwich inedible and a negotiable failure. Resist the urge apprentice, it'll be worth it.

Time to sauce it up. You wouldn't leave the house for a hot date without musking up would you? Of course not, as musk = guaranteed sex, and possibly a car and some kind of sporting victory. Sauce is a manwich's musk, and vital to maximise enjoyment. Our sauce of choice? Barbecue, because not only does it taste outstanding, but its main ingredients are metal and fire. Damn its masculine.

After the sauce comes the bed of crisps. Now most people will say it doesn't matter what flavour crisps you add, and those people are wrong. You need a pack of ready salted to back up your manwich, to add texture and noise, whilst not distracting you from the taste. By all means do not, I repeat DO NOT use chicken crisps, that's just a step too far.

He's finished, and by God is he handsome. Now I know what you're thinking, you want to cut him into tiny pieces don't you. Resist the urge, you've already proven your manliness by concocting this collaboration of awesomeness, you don't need to prove anything. Besides, disecting this rude-boy would suggest that you aren't man enough to eat it in one sitting, and we all know that's a lie.

So now my son, you must eat. How does it taste?

It tastes like the ending to 'Rocky III' - hard earned masculine triumph. Welcome my child, into the world of the Y chromosome, a world of fine women, legendary battles and victory over nature.

Supreme Satisfaction

Supreme have constantly produced high quality gear guaranteed to send a collective orgasm to streetwear geeks across the globe. The only problem is, unless you live in Japan, there ain't much chance of getting any. The NY skate company has seven flagship stores; NY, LA, Osaka, Nagoya, Fukuoka, Harajuku and Daikanyama, along with only ten licensed retailers across the globe and very strict importing rules. Luckily three of the afore-mentioned retailers are stationed within the UK; HIP in Leeds, The Hideout and Dover Street Market in London, meaning that not only is this stuff in my grasp, but its also attainable (once I have some cashflow).

I recently headed down to Dover Street Market to scope out the Supreme Autumn/Winter collection, and to see how little of it I could afford...

'Invincible Armor' Tee

Almost blagged this, but they were sold out of my size. Motif of old-skool Shaolin masters in a cool blue screenprint on a white tee.

Also available in black, gold, heather grey, teal, and navy.

£30 - Good shout, was expecting more towards the BBC/BAPE price range of £70+.

'Bored to Death' Tee

Image of Queen Victoria in an almost Chronic/Zig-Zag montage. Not as nice as the 'Invincible Armor' tee, but still a top-drawer item.

Available in various colours.

Varsity Jacket

Again, bang on trend and the finest example of a varsity jacket I've seen so far. Melton wool with snap front closures and leather trimmed pockets and under-collar.

I really REALLY want this. I tried it on in blue and grey and felt that I rocked the shit out of them both. Another shop patron joined me in fawning over these jackets - they are that good. When a jacket can unite two strangers in conversation then its worth it's weight in gold.

The only problem, however, is the price tag. If you're lucky enough to live in America you can pick one of these up for $338 (or £216) which is a fair price. Dover Street Market were listing these at £440, that's a mark-up of over 100% - 100%!!!

Don't get me wrong, if I had the money I would definitely own this, but at the same value as a month's rent I feel like crying.

Available in navy, cardinal, black and heather grey.

Small Box Logo Pullover Hoodie

Standard run of the mill hoodie featuring a tiny Supreme logo above the left breast. Nice product, but I wouldn't particularly pay £140 it (or $128 online).

Available in heather grey, red, blue, white, teal and black.

Box Logo New Era cap

Simple but effective, the must-have accessory from this collection. Supreme also have various other caps and beanies released for the Autumn/Winter season, but the box logo New Era cap is the pick of the bunch.

My only gripe is the US flag on the side, but hey its an American company and proud of it.

Available instore for £50 and in the following colours; dark grey, dark green, navy, black and red.

Available online (aka 'in your fucking dreams')

Vans/Supreme Old Skool 

As anyone knows, any Supreme collaboration turns heads and this is no exception. Whilst nowhere near as iconic as the Nike Dunk collab, and will probably be nowhere near as sought-after, these are still damn fine shoes.

Vans are seemingly on a high again after the resurgence of the classic 'Era' and 'Zapato Del Barco' models on practically everyone's feet, and these new versions of the 'Old Skool' model are continuing the trend.

Available in navy, maroon, grey and black.

There you go - the pick of the bunch of the Supreme Autumn/Winter 2010 collection. Check out the Supreme website, and run to your nearest stockist before it all sells out.

The clock is ticking, WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR??? 

The Empire Strikes Back...

The difficult second album, the 'long awaited sequel', 'Breakin' II: Electric Boogaloo'. All tags associated with the age old adage of following a surefire hit. There are examples of success ('Led Zeppelin II'), failure ('Escape from LA') and the golden goose; the superior creation ('Godfather II'). Where this comes into context in the fashion world is with regards to the Adidas Originals Star Wars line, a line which not only proved that the German sneaker powerhouse CAN create a good collaboration, but also proved financially and commercially successful t'boot. So now we are presented with an Autumn/Winter Star Wars range, but can it capture the magic of the original?

THE GOOD:

Death Star Letterman Jacket

Bang on trend with the current 'prep-hop' look that's being sought after by every man and his dog. My only gripe is patchwork overload - the TIE Fighters down the right arm are unnecessary, same for the red text below the right breast and the Adidas Star Wars logo on the left arm. The massive back print is superb, and the geekiest thing this side of a 'Dune' convention. Spot on.

Star Wars Adi Dassler Tee

I fucking love this item, it's superb. If you know me personally then you know that I have a permanent hard-on for white tees and off-centre prints (in this case, off center vertically speaking). This garment teams up Darth Vader; Dark Lord of Sith, Adi Dassler; Co-founder of Adidas, and C3PO; gold plated arrogant robo-twat, and the three are presiding over a very old-skool football boot. The item is finished off with a slogan above the left breast, and the Adidas Star Wars logo just below the neck.

Star Wars Top Ten 'Droids'

First spotted on Jay Baruchel's feet in the amazing TV advert in the summer, this design combines the colourways of the saga's foremost robots - the afore mentioned C3PO, and robotic bin-bad-ass R2D2. Now on paper, a shoe which is half gold/half white should be horrendous, but I personally adore them. Finished off with lace-covers saying 'DROIDS' and presented in blister-pack boxing these are definite must-haves.

THE BAD:

Star Wars Nizza 'Good'

Not a fan of these. Very cheap looking and would expect them to blow-up the second you laced them up. Heel has a 'Wookiees' logo that looks like little more than a transfer tattoo. The kids versions are very cute though. Buy for your offspring!

Boba Fett Track Top

Now this disappointed me. Boba Fett, the coolest anonymous bastard in the entire franchise, immortalised in a drab, overcrowded jacket. Although the colourway is clearly based upon the character's battle armour, it comes across like a hospital constructed in the late 1980s, or a mint-choc-chip ice-cream eaten on a cloudy day. Its also got far too many pockets. FAR TOO MANY.

THE BIZARRE:

Boba Fett Backpack

Have you ever seen a more gloriously bizarre/unnecessary commercial release backpack in all your days? Based on Boba Fett's helmet (although its more like a Clone Trooper THERE ARE ONLY THREE FILMS) this is a weird, although nicely designed/constructed accessory. I'd have killed for one of these as a kid.

A while back I wrote an article for 'CYNIC Magazine' highlighting the inaugural collection, and one thing ringed throughout - what is the purpose of this collaboration? What links German sportswear with intergalactic civil war? The answer is nothing. Nothing links the two, but frankly I don't care. This collaboration combines two things that I love - Star Wars, and clothing. The Autumn/Winter collection is disappointing compared to the initial collection, but still has some items that would be welcomed into any self-respecting wardrobe. So in essence, this season's offerings are more 'Return of the Jedi' than 'The Empire Strikes Back' - very good, but gimmicky and not as memorable as the original.

DOOMSDAY

He’s the man behind the mask, the eponymous heir to Dr. Doom and responsible for shaping the underground hip-hop scene in ways you've probably never even considered. He goes via many aliases like a secret agent or a felon on the run, and constantly thwarts those who try to second guess him. He is MF DOOM, and he’s finally coming to Britain.

Now go to your average music fan, or indeed your average hip-hop fan, and most will draw a blank when confronted with DOOM. His technique is simply stunning, sampling audio from old Fantastic Four cartoons and music straight from 1970s television and advertising, layering on top of that loose, somewhat surreal verses about everything from pie to cartoons, all delivered in an almost half-arsed drawl, but always containing a spark of wit and humour often scant from today’s ‘rappers’. Amazingly prolific, but still fiercely underground, he spits out albums faster than reality TV spits out ‘stars’. As such in the past five years he’s put out ten records - a smorgasbord of albums, EPs and mixtapes, has appeared on the second Gorillaz LP, ‘Demon Days’, and produced for Wu-Tang stalwarts Ghostface and Masta Killa. He’s even had his own action figure and Nike Dunk released (see my previous sneakergasm), the latter of which trade hands online for upwards of £250. Put it simply – he’s got IT.

However, DOOM has almost seemingly gone out of his way to severely piss off everyone who has ever given a damn about his music, not through traditional diss tracks or through the time feared notion of ‘selling out’, no what DOOM has done borders on both arrogance and art.

Even though he’s whipping out new material at an almost superhuman rate, his live appearances are getting rarer and rarer. Indeed online news of his upcoming UK tour (his first ever) was met with anger from loyal US fans wanting to get what they described as ‘the good show we deserve’ from Mr. Metal-Fingers. Indeed when he does make his rare US appearances they often leave a very sour taste in the mouths of the punters, for the man behind the mask on the stage in front of their eyes is not MF DOOM at all, no, in fact its an imposter. Rumours began circulating online that DOOM had employed a stooge for a club show in LA, miming to his hits before being booed off after roughly 3 songs, this was furthered by an angry open ended letter from a former DOOM fan that quickly circulated forums and blogs. Then one fake appearance became two... then three... then it spiralled out of control. Each DOOM show is now pre-empted by fears and worries that the $30 ticket for the show will be wasted money on another ‘Doom-bot’ appearance.

As such the news of DOOM’s UK tour has left some weary of paying upwards of £30 a ticket, just in case it all turns sour. But what this suggests to me is that the idea of MF DOOM is an art project, a lesson in phenomenology similar to the Shepard Fairey OBEY street-art campaign. What this DOOM Campaign is showing, is that there is no MF DOOM. It makes you question everything you thought you knew about the man behind the mask. Is this guy the guy we’re hearing on these records? Is he in fact one guy at all but a carefully constructed team of artists and producers, all trading under one name and one image? Is it one piece of a much larger picture? At this point all is speculation, but it won’t stop people trying to wing tickets for his upcoming shows because whether he appears or not, DOOM’s shows are going to be talked about on these shores for quite some time.

Dispatches from the Capital #1

29/08/2010 

It’s been four days since I moved down to foggy old London town, where the streets are paved with gold/phlegm. As of yet I’ve not explored much of my new city, save for a jaunt to Ikea and a few trips to ASDA. Now I know this sounds terribly tragic and thoroughly middle aged and anyone reading this must be thoroughly disappointed at my lack of heroin abuse, supermodel shagging and generic NME coverage, however it’s a period of adjustment so accept it or I’ll smash you in with some wood... 

...not that I’m going to abuse heroin, I’m fine with tea thankyouverymuch. 

The hat in question, only mine is charcoal
(least interesting caption ever)

My first foray into greater London (not ever, I’m not a fucking tourist) came courtesy of a half-arsed stroll into Shoreditch in the search of somewhere to watch the mighty Liverpool take on West Brom (I’m still trying to convince the world that I am a man dammit). We soon found out that Shoreditch is too trendy to show footie, well aside from one pub that was showing Everton vs. Aston Villa – fuck that. I’m actually still surprised that they showed any football at all, the best I was expecting would be something ‘quirky’ like a Wimbledon 1985 season review or Icelandic, blind beach football, but hey everyone just wanted to hang out, drink coffees and revel in their own beauty. Little did we know (being new to the area) that Sunday was market day on Brick Lane with a variety of little stalls selling everything from vintage smoking jackets and KISS tees, to Lego jewellery and meatballs, as well as booming business in the local Rough Trade record shop. I came this close *pinches fingers to symbolise distance* to buying some old hardcore punk fanzines and a couple of Converge records, but the ever present icy stare of my bank balance burned into my back like a hot skillet. 

I managed to also uncover a sample sale of OBEY clothing on the edge of the market, a three-day smash-and-grab kinda job offering new season clothing at massively reduced prices. I gave in to my new found pretentiousness and splurged on a pork-pie hat for only £20. Apparently I wear it well, but I can't help but feel a little like Gadget from This is England...

06/09/2010

I have been here for nearly two weeks now, and I remain jobless. Granted, my search has been, well, kinda half-arsed so far as I’ve achieved little more than sprinkling a few CVs around (of course they were to good places though; BAPE, The Hideout, Eastpak etc. – outlook on myself landing ANY of these is very slim indeed) and I am in the midst of filling out an application form for Foot Locker. You may be thinking “Stop blogging to no-one and finish that form you overweight idiot” and you’d have a point, but it is such a banal piece of literature that I’m having trouble convincing my own being to not stab myself in the throat.

EXAMPLE; “Tell us about a time when you provided extraordinary customer service by delivering the unexpected.”

If this form wasn’t so important, and, to a lesser extent, if I didn’t actually want to work for Foot Locker (it’s just a ‘for now’ thing, not a lifetime career) then I would crumple it into a tiny ball, insert it directly into my anus, light the protruding tip on fire then spend the following 45 minutes smashing my head into my desk.

Away from the job search, London continues to treat me fairly well. I’ve yet to be harassed, stabbed, mugged, threatened, raped or even looked at with shifty intent. My female-friend popped up for a few days (check her blog - wintagenetvoodle.blogspot.com) and made me feel loved and relaxed. Again, we checked out the Brick Lane market as it was one of the bargaining tools I used in coaxing her down for four days. Needless to say she loved it, and I managed to pick up a vintage Stüssy cap for a tenner off of a bloke in the street. It’s my kind of area – busy, yet somehow cut-off. Friendly, yet not ‘in-your-face’. Quirky, yet not annoying. Once I get the ball rolling career-wise, I could definitely see myself living there.

However the pangs of no fixed income snapped at my heels for the entirety of her stay. A trip to Size? unearthed a varsity jacket for £50 that would usually be eaten up like yesterday’s curry, but was instead left to hang like a high-five from a knobhead, and my search for a denim shirt (never thought I’d find myself searching for a denim shirt) only produced depressing examples of how urgently I need employment. I may have to swallow my pride and go with anything. I may go all Midnight Cowboy on yo’ asses and attempt to pimp myself out to wealthy 40+ women, befriending a diseased Dustin Hoffman in the process and eventually immigrating to Florida...

...now I come to think of it, that’s not such a bad idea after all.